Above the town of Gaiole in Chianti is a small hilltop hamlet called Vertine. Like most Italian hamlets, the stone dwellings were built around a grand building of some sort – in Vertine’s case, it is Castello Vertine with origins dating back to the early 11th century.

Unlike many hamlets though, the imposing castle is completely in tact and very much habitable (and currently for sale if you fancy an Italian castle). The well-appointed stone homes of the 30+ inhabitants wind their way along narrow cobbled streets beneath the castle and along its fortification walls, with the little church of San Bartolomeo at its centre. A tall tower at the entrance gate, now an apartment, keeps watch over the rolling hills of vineyards where the only intruders these days are likely a few tourists and some tractors.

Our family has visited so many hamlets in Italy where either it’s so quiet you can hear the wind blow between the houses OR where there’s so much tourist traffic that a visit is stressful. When we were in Vertine a few summers ago, we were the only visitors, but we were struck by its balance of liveliness and peacefulness. A few village cats checked us out, and one friendly dog trotted along beside us as we walked every street. Village folks were doing odd jobs around their houses, looking up to say Buongiorno as we passed. And every building was so well-maintained and often draped in healthy plants and flowers. It was a Vertine home’s street garden filled with gorgeous plants and vines that inspired this 2.5″-square mini that I painted last year called “A Window Garden in Chianti”.

After our walkabout, we sat in a small park on the hilltop taking in the panoramic views and talking about this little community’s obvious spirit, as once again evidenced in this park with each tree bearing a plaque with a citizen’s name. We wondered who they are/were, and what lives they’ve lived in Vertine – we conjured up some great stories as we relaxed under “their” trees.

After another hour or so, we took our leave of this special place and I hope to revisit it in paint again very soon.

(This original painting has found its happy home.)